A restaurant with an old-fashioned feel. It’s dim inside, but not uncomfortably so. The tables are adorned with white tablecloths, fresh flowers and candles in small glass holders. There’s soft music playing to complete the atmosphere.

The only thing that doesn’t fit the mood is what’s on the plates.

The restaurant serves all sorts of dishes, ranging from chateaubriand to beef Wellington and one can find many different kinds of potatoes on them. But if your dish comes with French fries, it’s probably best not to eat them. They are made from potatoes that used to be white and round, but are now gray and misshapen.

The potatoes come from a place in southwestern Sweden called Änggården, where the soil has been contaminated by toxic chemicals. Farmers who once grew potatoes there stopped cultivating these fields in the 1970s and started planting barley instead.